A once beautiful country, Yugoslavia, is now six beautiful countries viz. Serbia & Montenegro, Macedonia, Croatia, Slovenia, Kosovo and Bosnia ... each of these countries has a distinct flavor of its own and things to see and do and eat... yes, food is a very important part of everyday life here.
Dining out in SerbiaIf you have come to Serbia for business, which there is immense possibilities for, be prepared to go through the first half of the day with a feeling of not having achieved much. Serbs are by nature very patient people who like to take life at an easy pace. They cannot be coaxed or cajoled into doing anything in a hurry, including talking. Every small point, each non-issue, gets discussed at length. No decision is arrived at without endless deliberation. That is, till lunchtime. Come 2 p.m. and the entire group will unanimously agree that lunch should be taken. The choice of restaurant can be any of the floating cafes on either of the two rivers, Sava and Danube (pronounced Dunav). Belgrade, the capital of Serbia, is situated on the banks of these rivers, which provide a picturesque setting for many of these fine-dining joints. Serbs like to go for lunch in a group - the more, the merrier!
Once there, you see the Serbs come into action. Immediately, a round of
Rakje (pronounced Rakia) will be ordered. It is just what is needed in this very cold, wet place (the normal temperature is sub 10 degrees, but can go as low as -15 in the peak winter months of Dec -Jan. The wind chill factor is something else to reckon with and you can feel it cut right to the bone!). Everyone will place their orders at the same time and the waiters seem to be used to this kind of pandemonium as in a flash the table will be full of all kinds of starters - mostly cheese, salads and cold cuts. Don't be surprised if there are 7-8 different kind of cheese as, I am told, there are over 25 varieties available here!
As the food begins to disappear, the business starts to emerge. All that one has missed in the morning is caught up with. Point by point, the agenda gets covered and decisions get taken. Just as you are getting warmed up (thanks to the Rakje and the intense discussion) the waiter again appears. It is time for the soup, which can be a thick fish broth or clear red-meat soup - both equally delicious. All this while, the Rakje glass, a beautiful crystal the size of your little finger, will keep getting refilled.
Most interesting is the choice of main course. Being on the river mandates that it be fish, and there is a huge variety to choose from - a 6-inch crispy fried type to a 3 foot + monster which is first brought raw on a platter, for your approval. A large variety of wines, from Chablis to Pinot Noir, accompany the main course and bottle after bottle is consumed with ease. The meal would not be complete without the absolutely delicious desserts - excellent cakes and pies followed by strong Turkish coffee. A typical lunch here can start at 3pm and go on till after 7pm ... 4 hours of gastronomical delight!
For the weak hearted Indian there is a sole Indian restaurant, called India Palace (what else?). The chef is an Indian, but the spices are not. So it turns out to be a tame affair of kebabs, curries and daal. Not so much for the connoisseur of Indian cooking, but more for the home-sick travelers or strict vegetarians.
Plenty to see and doThe country has a lot to offer for lovers of natural beauty. The northern part of Serbia is flat as a pancake. This region,
Vojvodina, is the agricultural hub. As one travels south, the landscape completely transforms and the plains give way to very grand mountains. There are pretty brooks that come down the mountains and run parallel to the road as one drives from Serbia into Macedonia. Here you can see one of the three very large lakes (Ohrid, Prespa & Dojran) that are scenic and abundant with various types of fish - a must for the avid angler. Also a must see is the grape producing region of Kavadarci, famous for their 'yellow' brandy that is identified with this area. The capital, Skopje (pronounced Skopiye), is situated on the banks of river Vardar (which is Turkish for 'white river'). The riverside is dotted with numerous cafes. Evenings bring out young couples who sit on benches or wrought iron chairs in these cafes, having their wine or coffee and enjoying the beauty.
Montenegro, to the Southwest of Serbia, is on the coast of the Adriatic Sea. Coastal towns like Ulsinj and Petrovac are full of hotels on the beach side. These hotels are certainly on the higher side and one has to be prepared, not only for the high room rates, but also for the acute shortage of water that this region faces. The unique feature of Montenegro is that one can go from the sea on to mountains in a 20-minute drive! And these are mountains that get more than two feet of snow in peak winters!
Going around Belgrade one sees signs of a city once rich in culture but gone to decay due to the past decade of turmoil and sanctions. There are churches (both orthodox and catholic) that are an architect's dream. There are many museums and art galleries with enough paintings and sculptures to keep one occupied for an entire day. Almost all taxi drivers point to two buildings - one, the bombed Army HQ and the other the bombed Police HQ. The buildings are both as they were the day after they got bombed. Some taxi drivers will tell you that they have not been repaired as their country has no money, while others will say it is to serve as a reminder of the troubled past and the lessons that we need to take from those times!
Shop till you drop!Those with an urge for shopping will also not be disappointed. Serbia is an amazing place for buying glass stuff - from cut glass for everyday use to exquisite crystal. There are wine glasses, dinner sets, vases and decoration pieces, which take your breath away but are really low priced (one can pick a set of 6 whiskey glasses or champagne flutes for Rs.600!). Clothes are good too and do not cost the earth. Serbs are extremely fond of good footwear and one can see the latest Italian designs on display in numerous shoe stores in the cities. These, however, are not inexpensive and a good pair could cost as much as Euro 250 (Rs.15000/-)!!
Now that the Govt. has decided to go for major reforms, the state machinery is geared to privatization of various businesses (the hotel that we were staying in is up for grabs!). There is little doubt that, just like Germany, these countries too will come out stronger and regain their lost glory.
National PrideSpeaking of business, doing business in Serbia is an experience in itself. The notion of communism and of nationalism is felt in every -- step taken. The people here are die-hard fans of any national product or 'Domaci Product' as they say in the local language; even an advertisement of a local Beer company says 'My Country My Beer'.
Mahindra, after enormous efforts, has been able to establish a stable business network in this part and is steadily working towards establishing a sound brand image. Mahindra products are well respected and perceived as quality products from a reliable company. When one hears farmers say 'Dobro Product' - a very good product - there is a feeling of having achieved something ---- and then one will hear them say "Dobro Dosli i Serbia" - Welcome to Serbia - True; Mahindra is now very much welcome in Serbia.
In a nutshell, there is enough on offer here - from business, to shopping, to food, to culture, to sea, to mountains or maybe just a laid back holiday to unwind!
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